Luxury label acknowledges Indian roots of footwear design after backlash

The Italian luxury fashion label Prada said that it recognizes the Indian roots of its new shoe line, a few days after design triggered controversy in India.

The sandals, presented at Milan Fashion Week last week, had an open -end -to -end model that looked closely at the traditional Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Prada described sandals as “leather shoes” but has not mentioned its Indian origins, causing a backlash and allegations of cultural credits in India.

Responding to controversy, Prada told the BBC in a press release that he recognizes that sandals are inspired by traditional Indian shoes.

A spokesperson for Prada said that the company had “always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions”, adding that it was “in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture on this subject”. It is a commercial organization of industry in the state.

Last week, his chief wrote to the brand, saying that the design had been marketed without attributing the craftsmen who have kept its legacy for generations.

Lorenzo Bertelli, head of social responsibility of Prada companies, replied to his letter saying that the sandals were “at an early design stage”, according to Reuters.

He also said that Prada was open to a “dialogue for a significant exchange with local Indian craftsmen” and that the company would organize follow -up meetings to discuss more.

Named from a city in Maharashtra where they are made, the Kolhapuri sandals went up their roots until the 12th century.

Made of leather and sometimes natural colors shades, traditional handcrafted sandals are robust and well suited to the warm climate of India.

They received the status of geographic indication (GI) by the Indian government in 2019.

According to the World Trade Organization, a geographical indication label attributes a good or a product as being from a certain region or place, and is considered a brand of authenticity.

After the controversy, many Kolhapur craftsmen said they were saddened by the use of Prada design without granting credit.

“These sandals are made with the hard work of leather workers in Kolhapur. They should be appointed according to Kolhapur. Do not take advantage of the work of others,” a craftsman from Kolhapuri, in BBC Marathi told.

Sandals cost a few hundred rupees in India, but Prada’s premium prices have made some people.

The industrialist Harsh Goenka has pointed out, saying that local artisans are barely earning money for the same handmade products. “They lose, while world brands take our culture,” he said.

This is not the first time that world brands have been accused of appropriating traditional Indian products without attributing their roots.

During the 2025 Cannes Film Festival, Gucci described a sari worn by Bollywood Star Alia Bhatt as a dress, triggering a backlash.

Earlier in May, a popular Tiktok trend was criticized for calling Dupatta, a traditional Southern Asian scarf, a Scandinavian scarf.

In Kolhapur, however, some said that this decision had inculcated a feeling of pride in them.

“Artisans are happy that someone recognizes their work,” the businessman based in Kolhapur told Reuters.

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