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Bulgarian grape pickers work in the vineyards of Château de Meursault in Meursault, Burgundy, east-central France, on August 26, 2025. (Photo by ARNAUD FINISTRE / AFP) (Photo by ARNAUD FINISTRE/AFP via Getty Images)
Arnaud Finistre | Afp | Getty Images
It’s no surprise that champagne sales peak in the run-up to Christmas and New Year, with French sparkling being the drink of choice in many households over the festive period.
Each year, around 120,000 seasonal workers come to work in France and harvest grapes on 34,000 hectares of vines. The harvest only lasts a few weeks, making it a frenetic time for the sector.
A darker side of the industry has emerged when it comes to this work, however, with recent reports highlighting the exploitation and mistreatment of champagne pickers, who are often foreigners and undocumented migrants.
During an extreme heatwave in late summer 2023, at least four migrant grape harvesters, or “grape pickers” as they are called, died in what has since been dubbed the “harvest of shame.”
The case exposed substandard working and housing conditions for pickers, including excessive work hours, low wages, a lack of equipment and safety protocols, such as adequate hydration and rest breaks.
The scandal over working conditions and social welfare comes at a difficult time for the entire sector: the 2024 harvest recorded below-average yields. due to spring frosts and a rainy period during the summer this only eased towards the end of the growing season, pretty much to “save” the crop.
The 2025 harvest performed better and was praised for its high-quality vintage, thanks to mild weather conditions.
Still, this year’s sales, which will be released in January, are likely to be further dampened by U.S. tariffs on goods from the EU, which causes champagne shipments to the United States to fall.
“Egregious mistreatment”
The darker side of the Champagne industry came to light when at least four migrant grape pickers died during the 2023 harvest, which took place during an extreme heatwave.
Seasonal workers harvest grapes in vineyards in the AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) Champagne region on September 14, 2023 in Châtillon-sur-Marne, France.
Thierry Monasse | Getty Images News | Getty Images
Then, in the summer of 2025, three individuals went on trial, accused of human trafficking and exploitation of more than 50 West African migrant workers during the 2023 harvest.
Victims said they were treated “like slaves” and “animals” and housed in “hellish” and unsanitary conditions, with no drinking water. Such conditions compromise the safety, health and dignity of workers, the labor inspectorate said in the case.
Unscrupulous hiring practices were also highlighted during the trial, with the defendants affiliated with a placement agency that supplied workers to the sector, highlighting the widespread use by Champagne houses of subcontractors and placement agencies, or more informal channels, to recruit grape pickers.
The defendants were found guilty and sentenced to fines and prison terms, while unions said the use of “middlemen” and agencies allowed Champagne houses to turn a blind eye to illegal labor practices.
In the summary of the case which took place at the Châlons-en-Champagne criminal court, the prosecutor declared: “we cannot accept that behind a bottle of Champagne lies uncontrolled subcontracting and blatant mistreatment.”
Sales Challenges
The Champagne Committee — the main trade body for the French Champagne industry and representing more than 16,000 winemakers, 130 cooperatives and 370 Champagne houses — acknowledged that the trial had damaged the industry’s reputation and said it would take a “zero tolerance” approach to any future abuse.
“We had to be alongside the victims. We do not play with the health and safety of seasonal workers. We do not play with the image of our appellation either,” co-presidents of the Committee David Chatillon and Maxime Toubart. declared to the newspaper Le Monde in July after the trial.
The Committee launched an action plan “Together for the Champagne harvest” to ensure the improvement of worker health and safety protocols, worker accommodation and harvest regulations.
A trade unionist from the General Confederation of Labor (CGT) distributes brochures to seasonal grape pickers, often foreign workers, at a Champagne vineyard to inform them of their labor rights, in Igny-Comblizy, eastern France, September 19, 2024.
François Nascimbéni | Afp | Getty Images
Winegrowers and Champagne houses were keen to show their commitment to the well-being of workers. Moët & Chandon, the world’s leading producer and member of LVMHhas invested €1.5 million ($1.76 million) in new accommodation for an additional 90 grape pickers in 2024, bringing the total capacity of its accommodation offering to 1,900 beds.
CNBC asked the Champagne Committee whether the social measures have been fully implemented by its member organizations since they were proposed, but has not yet received a response. CNBC also contacted several unions, including the CGT union and the SGV union of Champagne winegrowers, about the reforms, but received no response.
This is undoubtedly a difficult time for the entire sector: the 2024 harvest recorded below-average yields. due to spring frosts and a rainy period during the summer this only diminished towards the end of the growing season – pretty much “saving” the crop. The 2025 harvest performed better and was praised for its high-quality vintage, thanks to mild weather conditions.
Synonymous with northeastern France, Champagne represents 10% of global sparkling wine production by volume, but up to 35% of global sparkling wine market value. However, sales have declined in recent years due to a drop in global demand and a decline in alcohol consumption.
In 2023, Champagne shipments (which are typically a mixture of harvests from several years) totaled 299 million bottlesdown 8.2% from the previous year. In 2024, 271 million bottles were shipped, according to the Comité Champagne data. This year’s sales face additional hurdles from U.S. tariffs on goods from the EU.
The industry has also faced internal challenges, with the CGT union at LVMH’s Moët & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot champagne units calling workers to strike in December for the cancellation of end-of-year bonuses and for better wages.
A spokesperson for Moët & Chandon told CNBC it would not comment on the dispute but that salary negotiations would take place in early 2026, noting that “we cannot comment before negotiations.”
If sales continue to decline, the treatment of seasonal pickers will be just one of the challenges facing the industry.
